Fitting a new bridge properly is not a simple or inexpensive job - but with a small amount of care your bridge can last for years.
The bridge is the "heart" of a stringed instrument. It is probably the single most important component and has a major effect not only on the sound produced but also on the playability and feel for both fingering and bowing. The fitting of a new bridge is a skilful and exacting job, taking 1½ to 2 hours for a violin or viola and around 4 hours for a cello. The "blank" used to fashion the bridge can cost anything from a few dollars to more than $100 depending on the quality of the wood.
First, the feet are cut with a knife to exactly match the shape of the belly. This allows the optimum transmission of vibrations from the strings through to the instrument. The feet are also fitted so that the back face of the bridge (the side facing the tailpiece) forms a right angle to the belly. This is to direct the pressure from the strings through the centre of the bridge and thus reduce the risk of bending or warping.
Next the height and curvature of the top of the bridge are carefully adjusted to give the required clearance of the strings above the fingerboard, and the correct shape for ease of bowing. Finally the bridge is trimmed of excess wood, shaped, sanded and the string grooves are cut.
A good quality, well-fitted and properly maintained bridge should last for years. You can help look after your bridge by periodically checking its position and condition. This is a simple procedure involving the following steps:
1. Check the position of the bridge by sighting down the fingerboard from the scroll end. You should see the bridge sitting symmetrically placed at the end of the fingerboard.
2. Sight down the bridge from directly above and check that the bridge feet are centred on an imaginary line drawn between the inside nicks of the f-holes.
N.B. These bridge positions are standard but not universally correct - your violin repairer may have chosen to shift the position slightly for a number of reasons.
3. Now view the bridge from the side to check that the back face of the bridge is at a right angle to the belly and that it is not bending or warping in any way. If necessary you can lay the instrument on its back on a soft surface and using both hands (with fingers hooked over the top and sides of the bridge and thumbs behind), gently ease the bridge forward or back. Do not put any pressure downwards onto the belly while you are doing this.
4. Finally check around the bridge feet to make sure that there are no gaps and the bridge is sitting comfortably on the belly.
For more information about the placement or condition of your bridge, or a demonstration of bridge adjustment please consult your violin repairer.
© Alan Coggins 2002